Pool and spa electrical
A pool needs more electrical work than most people expect. Pumps, filters, chlorinators, heat pumps, lights and automation controllers all need power, and they all sit close to water. The typical pool job includes:
- A dedicated circuit from the switchboard to the pool equipment area
- RCD (safety switch) protection for the pool equipment
- Weatherproof power outlets and isolators at the equipment pad
- A dedicated circuit sized for a pool heat pump, if you’re adding one
- Wiring for pool lights, usually extra-low voltage fed from a transformer outside the pool zone
- Equipotential bonding of the pool and nearby conductive parts
- Timers or smart control for the pump and lights
Heat pumps and larger pumps can put real load on the switchboard. On older homes we check that the board and supply can handle it. If not, a switchboard upgrade may be part of the job.
Equipotential bonding
Equipotential bonding is one of the most important parts of pool electrical work, and one of the least understood. AS/NZS 3000 requires conductive parts of and around a pool or spa to be bonded together. The idea is to keep everything a swimmer might touch at the same electrical potential, so that if a fault does occur, current doesn’t pass through a person in the water.
What needs bonding depends on the pool and what’s around it. It can include the reinforcing steel in a concrete pool, metal ladders and handrails, fixed metal items within the pool zone and pool equipment. The key point is timing. Bonding to the reinforcing steel has to happen before the concrete is poured, so we need to be involved while the pool builder is at the steel stage. If you’re building a pool, tell your pool builder to get us in early.
We document the bonding as part of our compliance paperwork. Pool certifiers and inspectors may ask to see it.
Pool zones and fittings near water
AS/NZS 3000 sets out zones around pools and spas where only certain types of electrical equipment can go, and what protection it needs. Power points, switches and standard light fittings can’t just go anywhere near the water. We set out the equipment and outlets to suit these zones, which is another reason to plan the electrical at the same time as the pool layout.
Our pool electrical safety post explains the main things pool owners should know, including signs that something isn’t right with existing pool wiring.
Outdoor lighting
Good outdoor lighting makes a backyard usable after dark and makes the house safer and easier to get around. We install:
- Patio, deck and alfresco lighting, including downlights and pendants rated for outdoor use
- Garden and path lighting, often on extra-low voltage systems
- Feature and up-lighting for trees, walls and pool areas
- Security and sensor lights for driveways, side paths and entries
- Outdoor ceiling fans for covered areas
We can put outdoor lights on sensors, timers or smart control so they come on when you need them. See our lighting installation page for more on fittings and options.
Weatherproof power and IP ratings
Outdoor fittings have to cope with rain, humidity, sun and, near the beach, salt spray. The IP rating on a fitting tells you how well it keeps out dust and water. Outdoor power points and lights need a rating that suits their location, whether that’s a covered patio, a fully exposed garden wall or an underwater pool light.
Cheap fittings with the wrong rating are one of the most common causes of tripping safety switches after rain. Water gets in, the RCD trips, and the problem comes back every wet season. We use fittings with a suitable IP rating, mount them so water drains away, and seal cable entries properly. In coastal suburbs we choose materials that stand up to salt air.
Outdoor kitchens, sheds and granny flats
Outdoor kitchens need power for fridges, rangehoods, pizza ovens and lighting. Sheds and workshops may need their own circuit or a small sub-board, especially if you run power tools or a compressor. If you’re running power to a detached building, we work out the cable size to suit the distance and load using AS/NZS 3008 and make sure it’s protected properly.
Compliance and what affects the cost
All our outdoor and pool electrical work is done to AS/NZS 3000, tested and certified. You’ll receive a compliance certificate, which you should keep with your pool and house records.
Cost depends on the distance from the switchboard to the pool or outdoor area, whether cabling needs to be trenched or can run through the roof, the number of lights and outlets, and whether the switchboard needs work. Trenching through established gardens or under paving takes more time than a new site. We’ll give you a written quote with everything listed.