On a renovation, the electrical work is mostly hidden once the plasterboard goes up. That’s exactly why it’s worth planning carefully. Moving a power point before the walls are sheeted is a small job. Moving it after the painter has finished is a much bigger one.
This is the checklist we work through with clients before a kitchen, bathroom or whole-of-house renovation. Use it to get your thinking done early, so decisions aren’t being made on site in a rush.
1. Check the switchboard first
Before planning anything new, find out whether your switchboard can take it. Renovations usually add circuits: an induction cooktop, a wall oven, extra air conditioning, a new laundry or a studio. If the board is old, full or has no safety switches, an upgrade may be needed before new work can be connected.
It’s much better to know this at the planning stage than halfway through the job. Our article on signs you need a switchboard upgrade explains what we look for, and older boards may contain asbestos, which affects how the work is done.
2. Plan power points room by room
Walk through each room and think about how you’ll actually use it. Where will the bed go? Where will the TV be mounted? Where do you charge phones? The most common regret we hear after a renovation is “I wish we’d put in more power points”.
- Double power points instead of singles, almost always
- USB or USB-C outlets beside beds and in the kitchen
- Power inside pantries and cabinets for appliances you want hidden away
- Outlets at a sensible height for wall-mounted TVs, with a data point nearby
- External power points on the deck or in the garage
See our power point installation page for more on what’s possible.
3. Kitchens need their own plan
Kitchens are the most electrically demanding room in the house. Things to decide early:
- Cooktop type. Induction cooktops typically need a dedicated high-capacity circuit. If you’re switching from gas, this is essential to plan for.
- Oven, dishwasher, rangehood and microwave positions, each with the right outlet or connection in the right place.
- Island bench power, which needs cable run through the floor or slab before the bench goes in.
- Under-cabinet and feature lighting, including where the drivers will live.
4. Bathrooms have zones
AS/NZS 3000 sets out zones around baths, showers and basins, and restricts what can be installed in each. It affects the position of power points, lights, heated towel rails, exhaust fans and shaver outlets. Your electrician should mark these out before the tiler arrives.
Think about heated towel rails and underfloor heating early, and consider a timer or separate switch so they aren’t left running. Exhaust fans should be ducted to the outside, not into the roof space, to avoid moisture problems.
5. Lighting layout, not just light fittings
Good lighting is layered: general lighting, task lighting over benches and desks, and feature lighting. Plan switch positions at every entry to a room, two-way switching in hallways and stairs, and dimming where you want it. If you’re choosing downlights, our LED downlight buying guide covers colour temperature, dimmer compatibility and IC-4 ratings.
6. Data, TV and smart home cabling
Wi-Fi is convenient, but a hard-wired data cable to key rooms is still more reliable for TVs, home offices and Wi-Fi access points. If walls are open, running data cable costs little compared with retrofitting later. The same goes for smart home wiring: smart switches often need a neutral at the switch, and deeper wall boxes. It’s covered in our article on smart home wiring.
7. Future-proof for what’s coming
Even if you’re not ready now, consider running conduit or cable for:
- A future EV charger in the garage or carport
- Solar panels and a home battery
- Additional air conditioning
- Outdoor kitchens, pools or spas
Empty conduit costs very little during a renovation and saves a lot of disruption later.
8. Smoke alarms and compliance
Renovation work in Queensland can trigger requirements to bring smoke alarms up to the current standard, and from 1 January 2027 every home must comply regardless. It makes sense to do it while the ceilings are accessible. Our guide to the 2027 smoke alarm laws explains what’s needed.
All new electrical work must be done by a licensed electrician, tested, and certified with a compliance certificate. Keep this paperwork with your house records. It matters for insurance, and buyers and building inspectors may ask for it if you sell.
9. Timing with your builder
Electrical work on a renovation usually happens in three stages:
- Disconnection and make-safe before demolition, so the site is safe for other trades
- Rough-in, when cables, boxes and conduits are installed with the walls and ceilings open
- Fit-off, after painting, when switches, outlets, lights and appliances are installed and tested
Walk through the house with your electrician at rough-in, before plasterboard goes up. It’s the last easy chance to move things.
10. A word on DIY
Plenty of renovation tasks suit a capable homeowner. Electrical work isn’t one of them. In Queensland and NSW, only licensed electricians can carry out electrical installation work, including moving a power point or swapping a light fitting. It’s about safety for you and the next person who owns the house.
Planning your renovation
We work with homeowners and builders on renovations across the Gold Coast, Brisbane, Logan and the Northern Rivers. If you’d like to talk through your plans, see our new homes and renovations page and get in touch for an upfront written quote.
Safety note: electrical work in Queensland and NSW must be done by a licensed electrician. This article is general information, not advice for your specific property. If something looks or smells wrong, switch off at the main switch if it’s safe to do so and call an electrician.